Attire and Identity: The Cultural Significance of Kurdish Clothing
- Arda Bora Karahan
- Aug 7
- 3 min read
Written by Emir Taha Macit
Kurdish clothing is a clear representation of Kurdish culture and traditions. From the shal and the shepik to the fistan, each piece of Kurdish attire has a meaning and history behind it. Tracing back to ancient times, Kurdish clothing has remained prominent in Kurdish people’s lives as it reflects several things about a person, such as marital and social status, wealth, and regional traditions.
Kurdish clothes are made of various materials. While the shal and the shepik are made from wool, the fistan is made from silk or velvet. The shalwar is made from cotton, while the chokheh is made from felt. These materials reflectthe traditional Kurdish lifestyle. For example, wool and felt help protect against the cold, which was useful because of the mountainous environment.
Kurdish artisans use handloom techniques passed down through many generations to make clothing. They use natural plant-based ingredients for dyes such as madder for reds, indigo for blues, and local flora for other hues. The embroidery often featured geometric and floral designs using threads on fabrics, crafted with stitches like chain, pin, and mouse-tooth.
In Kurdish clothing, every color has a meaning. Red symbolizes strength, courage, passion, and the blood of martyrs from Kurdish struggles. Green represents natural themes that are tied closely to spring celebrations such as Nowruz. Yellow represents the sunlight as well as prosperity and is often used in festive attire. Blue represents spirituality and is commonly seen in sashes and men’s attire. Black is linked to resilience and sometimes mourning; it is mostly used in men’s garments. White symbolizes hope and is used in bridal wear.
Kurdish men often wore clothes like baggy trousers, broad cloth sashes, some head coverings, and felted wool vests. These clothes were designed to provide easy movement and protection from the cold, which makes them very helpful in mountainous areas. Kurdish women, on the other hand, wore clothes like the kras—a long gown made of silk, chiffon, velvet, or satin—undershirts made of cotton, belts or sashes that were sometimes decorated with gold, and maybe even vests in colder seasons. These clothes were very colorful as well as intricately made, and they represented femininity. Some embroidery on the clothes reflected social status and regional traditions.
Kurdish clothing evolved to be different in each region of Kurdistan due to the environment, various tribal identities, and influence from neighbouring cultures. In Northern Kurdistan, men’s attire included tight-fitting lower legs with a voluminous crotch in trousers, neck scarves, and waistcoats. Women’s clothing consisted of baggy trousers, underdresses, a draping kras, along with long triangular sleeves, and a vest worn over it. In Central Kurdistan, men wore the shal and the shepik, gathered trousers, collarless fitted jackets, and funnel-sleeved shirts wrapped over the jacket. And women wore colorful gowns, shorter cropped jackets, and ornate belts. This was known as the Hakkari style. In Southern and Eastern Kurdistan, men wore baggy trousers tapered at the ankle, simple jackets, and solid earth-toned suits while women wore the sorani dress with triangular sleeves underpinned by cotton trousers, and a jacket or a coat.
Though most of these clothes are not worn regularly anymore, they are still worn and celebrated on special occasions such as festivals, weddings, and events. While they used to be everyday attire, they are now symbols of heritage, identity, and pride. Even though it is rare, it is still possible to see people regularly wearing traditional clothes in urban areas. Also, young Kurds have started to proudly wear traditional clothing to help remind people of their heritage and culture, and to keep the tradition alive.
Kurdish clothing is not just functional; it is a representation of one’s situation and history. It is a crucial reflection of Kurdish history that will never stop being passed down through generations. From their craftsmanship to their variety and meaning, they hold a significant place in Kurdish culture. They help bring people together and preserve their traditions. Protecting such cultural elements is undoubtedly one of the best forms of cultural resistance.
References:
“12. The Kurds”, TRC Leiden https://trcleiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/from-kaftan-to-kippa/item/63-the-kurds?utm_source
“Kurdish Embroidery”, Walking in Iran, 2024 www.walkinginiran.com/kurdish-embroidery/?utm_source
“Kurdish dress code reflects the nation’s culture and heritage”, Kurdistan 24, 2021 https://www.kurdistan24.net/en/story/385210
“Clothing”, Kurdish Central, kurdishcentral.org/clothing/?utm_source